It is said that Brussels is a culinary destination but we cannot agree.
During a recent trip, we had several competent meals and found the reputation overstated and the typical Belgian dishes rather bland.
At Francois, a pleasing small restaurant in the old fish market section of St Catherine, we sampled:
a bouillabaise that was just plain
a large rabbit hind leg braised in the traditional beer sauce that was very tasteful
a lamb tongue appetizer, quite nice
the biggest and nicest surprise was the amuse bouche: half a dozen snails stuffed with green peppercorns presented with a metal gadget something like the old sardine can opener which was stuck in a wine cork and which the waiter insisted of calling " a snail spoon" quite a contraption. The snails were very nice indeed the peppercorn adding a lovely punch
At Aux Armes de Bruxelles, we found a large bustling restaurant, a little full of themselves, and we had:
Moules/Frites: a filling bucket of mussels in white wine sauce, tasty but no match for Caraba's, my standard for mussels. The Frites sure looked like they came out of a big frozen Oreida bag, though the waiter insisted that they were hand cut on the premises. Duck breast in a light tomato sauce with hints of rose petals, very very nice. Shrimp croquettes with a mushy texture and little virtue or taste
The Dames Tartines was a lovely surprise: a small restaurant near the Botanical Gardens, tastefully decorated with white walls and modern paintings (for sale). The lady who ran the room looked frazzled the entire time, perhaps overwhelmed by having a full house that evening, but capable and helpful with a no-nonsense air about her. The menu was focused of seafood: we had a Dorado and a Bra, both fillets wiht skin on delicately poached and served simply with vegetables. Although it is listed as serving belgian quisine, the menu did not include any of the traditional dishes including no moules/frites. The evening was particularly pleasant because we shared the meal with other members of our working group and got to chat outside the conference environment. Although we did not order an elaborate menu, the meal lasted almost 3 hours thanks to the lone lady caretaker of the house.
for our experience at La Taverne du Passage and Comme Chez Soi, see separate blog entries.
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Brussels dining: comme chez soi
The restaurant now holds 2 Michelin stars and continues to be considered the premier dinning establishment in Brussels; well deserved!!
We celebrated Joe's 62nd birthday there one windy, crisp evening. The space is ornate and festive with stained glass and dark paneling, formal but not ostentatious. With the right table one can see into the kitchen through a glass window. The tables are snuggly set near one another as is usual in Europe. The service is gracious and friendly; still relatively few waitstaff taking care of serving, pouring and picking up throughout the meal.
To start we chose a roll of oxtail and lamb tongues with coriander and a young leek terrine (mouthwateringly delicious) and pan fried Dublin bay prawns over a mount of crispy vegetables with a light parmesan creamy sauce (the taste like langoustines and the sauce with a wonderful gentle punch). The main course was one of those "aha" experiences that makes Comme Chez Soi clearly worth a trip. Pigeon breasts with green carraway, black radish canneloni with chinese cabbage served for 2 persons. This detail violated our decades long rule of sharing but we could not resist the selection (also most offerings on the menu are for 2 persons as well). The boneless meat was a dark burgundy color, soft as liver in texture and sublimely tasty. It is quite difficult to describe the gustatory sensation of food; this pigeon swirled into the mouth releasing pleasure with every squeeze on the teeth. There was a bit of sausage and the delicate sides to complement it, though overshadowed by the excellence of the pigeon itself. We ate slowly savoring each bite of the well measured portion on our plates wanting it to last as long as possible. Just as we were sorrowfully reaching the end..... the waiter came around with a copper pot and asked: would you like seconds? What an amazing surprise! The seconds, all pigeon, were just about as much meat as the firsts and so we had another delightful round of exquisite taste. The concluding coffee came with a small silver tray of sweet mouthfuls of chocolates just the right amount of sugar to end a most unforgettable meal. clearly one of the best meals we have had in some time and well worth a return visit.
We celebrated Joe's 62nd birthday there one windy, crisp evening. The space is ornate and festive with stained glass and dark paneling, formal but not ostentatious. With the right table one can see into the kitchen through a glass window. The tables are snuggly set near one another as is usual in Europe. The service is gracious and friendly; still relatively few waitstaff taking care of serving, pouring and picking up throughout the meal.
To start we chose a roll of oxtail and lamb tongues with coriander and a young leek terrine (mouthwateringly delicious) and pan fried Dublin bay prawns over a mount of crispy vegetables with a light parmesan creamy sauce (the taste like langoustines and the sauce with a wonderful gentle punch). The main course was one of those "aha" experiences that makes Comme Chez Soi clearly worth a trip. Pigeon breasts with green carraway, black radish canneloni with chinese cabbage served for 2 persons. This detail violated our decades long rule of sharing but we could not resist the selection (also most offerings on the menu are for 2 persons as well). The boneless meat was a dark burgundy color, soft as liver in texture and sublimely tasty. It is quite difficult to describe the gustatory sensation of food; this pigeon swirled into the mouth releasing pleasure with every squeeze on the teeth. There was a bit of sausage and the delicate sides to complement it, though overshadowed by the excellence of the pigeon itself. We ate slowly savoring each bite of the well measured portion on our plates wanting it to last as long as possible. Just as we were sorrowfully reaching the end..... the waiter came around with a copper pot and asked: would you like seconds? What an amazing surprise! The seconds, all pigeon, were just about as much meat as the firsts and so we had another delightful round of exquisite taste. The concluding coffee came with a small silver tray of sweet mouthfuls of chocolates just the right amount of sugar to end a most unforgettable meal. clearly one of the best meals we have had in some time and well worth a return visit.
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
Brussels dining: La Taverne de Passage
We reached Brussels on a cold, windy and rainy Sunday morning after the transatlantic flight form the States. Mercifully, our hotel room was available and we rested, regrouped and ventured out into the grey morning in search of Culture. We tucked into the fine arts museum and enjoyed the Magritte exhibit and the other offerings of the museum. We walked the cobble stone streets of the old town, ventured briefly to the Grande Place thinly crowded with visitors mostly local and it was time to have our first Belgian meal.
Unfortunately, many restaurants are closed both Sundays and Mondays in Brussels. Fortunately, La Taverne de Passage was open all day, every day within walking distance from the Grande Place and our hotel. Located inside an old covered mall with a tall glass, vaulted ceiling lined with chocolateries, antique shops and cafes, it was a classic restaurant with white linen and men waitors, dark panelling and tiled floors. The wait staff were having their meal and despite the unfashionably early hour of 6pm there were a few other diners in the middle of their meal. We selected a waterzooi, typical Belgian fare " a creamy, comforting dish of chicken or fish in broth" (we had the chicken), and an order of veal kidneys cooked in beer. The chicken arrived in a large metal pot filled with broth; two pieces of chicken, leeks and potatoes, a "poulet avec ses legumes" of Lyons memory. It was nice and bland, good for chasing away a cold or soothing an upset stomach; certainly not worth carrying home for our future enjoyment. The kidneys were also nice, the sauce jestier and the texture chewy and very satisfying; no sides, no extras. We shared a small carafe of house wine, the most reasonable selection among an overpriced list of wines. Surprisingly, both in this and all other restaurants the beer choices were particulary slim; one light ale, one darker beer and one non-alcoholic beverage.
On the way home we walked along Rue des Bouchers a narrow street lined with restaurants serving prix-fixe dinners of moules / frites, sparsely populated with waiters standing at the door tryingto entice customers. We did not visit Chez Leon on this trip having earlier ascertatined that it is an over advertized, mediocre place serving mediocre food. We cruised along Rue Neuve, lined with the ubiquitous brand stores now selling in most malls anywhere, bustling with relatively young people, many scarved women and a Mc Donald's, the most crowded of all the establishments. At the hotel, across the Place Rogiers we retreated for our first night in Brussels tired and ready to call it a night.
Unfortunately, many restaurants are closed both Sundays and Mondays in Brussels. Fortunately, La Taverne de Passage was open all day, every day within walking distance from the Grande Place and our hotel. Located inside an old covered mall with a tall glass, vaulted ceiling lined with chocolateries, antique shops and cafes, it was a classic restaurant with white linen and men waitors, dark panelling and tiled floors. The wait staff were having their meal and despite the unfashionably early hour of 6pm there were a few other diners in the middle of their meal. We selected a waterzooi, typical Belgian fare " a creamy, comforting dish of chicken or fish in broth" (we had the chicken), and an order of veal kidneys cooked in beer. The chicken arrived in a large metal pot filled with broth; two pieces of chicken, leeks and potatoes, a "poulet avec ses legumes" of Lyons memory. It was nice and bland, good for chasing away a cold or soothing an upset stomach; certainly not worth carrying home for our future enjoyment. The kidneys were also nice, the sauce jestier and the texture chewy and very satisfying; no sides, no extras. We shared a small carafe of house wine, the most reasonable selection among an overpriced list of wines. Surprisingly, both in this and all other restaurants the beer choices were particulary slim; one light ale, one darker beer and one non-alcoholic beverage.
On the way home we walked along Rue des Bouchers a narrow street lined with restaurants serving prix-fixe dinners of moules / frites, sparsely populated with waiters standing at the door tryingto entice customers. We did not visit Chez Leon on this trip having earlier ascertatined that it is an over advertized, mediocre place serving mediocre food. We cruised along Rue Neuve, lined with the ubiquitous brand stores now selling in most malls anywhere, bustling with relatively young people, many scarved women and a Mc Donald's, the most crowded of all the establishments. At the hotel, across the Place Rogiers we retreated for our first night in Brussels tired and ready to call it a night.
Belgium: are all frites frozen?
Belgium prides itself on lace, chocolate, beer, mussels and "pommes frites", french fries.
On our recent visit to the country, we sampled frites in several restaurants both casual and of higher prestige. Frites was on the menu almost always accompanying meat and seafood fare. We were expecting something special: hand cut, deliciously fried morsels to set their merits apart from industrial, precut potatoes that make a mother's dinner preparation easy and fast in the States. Alas, quite the opposite.
In all cases the fries arrived in bowls or plates absolutely uniform in shape, tepidly fried, almost wilted and remarkably like what we have learned to expect from the Oreida food processing giant. Almost all were thickly cut affairs with a pale yellow color, uncrisp, healthfully cooked in vegetable oil. Nothing to justify their calories or to fullfill the well deserved sin of eating something worthwhile just .. once in a while. At the Armes de Bruxelles we were served the thick cut variety and another Mc Donald like slender cut specifically designed to accompany a different dish; both servings had the same industrial uniformity of shape and texture. We asked the waiter about this and he looked indignant and said "mais, non madam" of course they were all cut by hand on the premises and lovingly prepared especially for each serving. How we could not believe him!
On our recent visit to the country, we sampled frites in several restaurants both casual and of higher prestige. Frites was on the menu almost always accompanying meat and seafood fare. We were expecting something special: hand cut, deliciously fried morsels to set their merits apart from industrial, precut potatoes that make a mother's dinner preparation easy and fast in the States. Alas, quite the opposite.
In all cases the fries arrived in bowls or plates absolutely uniform in shape, tepidly fried, almost wilted and remarkably like what we have learned to expect from the Oreida food processing giant. Almost all were thickly cut affairs with a pale yellow color, uncrisp, healthfully cooked in vegetable oil. Nothing to justify their calories or to fullfill the well deserved sin of eating something worthwhile just .. once in a while. At the Armes de Bruxelles we were served the thick cut variety and another Mc Donald like slender cut specifically designed to accompany a different dish; both servings had the same industrial uniformity of shape and texture. We asked the waiter about this and he looked indignant and said "mais, non madam" of course they were all cut by hand on the premises and lovingly prepared especially for each serving. How we could not believe him!
Friday, March 19, 2010
BBQ the slow food of Texas
Joe was the first customer of the day at the Torres barbershop and hair salon, where Mr. Torres barbers and Mrs. Torres salons. The establishment is a small, neat old Galveston house with a condemned building and “stay out” insignia across the street. The haircut done, we started toward the Galveston Livestock Show and BBQ cook-off; spotting a small, tucked away Latino bakery with empanadas and kolaches at under a dollar we bought a good, local breakfast.
Taking the Hway 6 exit off I-45, we drove up to the only regional Haak winery in this part of Texas and from there to the fairgrounds in Hitchcock, TX. We turned in on the country fair grounds and parked on the nearby field. It was a relatively cool and breezy day, though sunny and bright. There was the livestock show, some sheep and goats, more cows and turkeys and mostly chickens and pigs; all bored, lying in their enclosures tolerating the gawkers and their trainers. There were Ferris Wheels and Merry-go-rounds, and a mass of families milling around in the dust and sun.
The BBQ cook-off that was a big part of the attraction smelled like heaven; dozens of big, black, smoking cookers under tents with their guardians sitting around drinking beer and waiting. Turns out, this is a big affair, $2,500 just to enter the cook off; three days, first fajitas and beans, next chicken and chili and finally ribs and brisket. The judges blind-tasted each entry and developed the runner-up list, the final winners to be announced Saturday evening before the concluding rodeo at 8pm. As it turned out, we arrived too early to withstand the heat for another 4 hours, so we took pictures of the fair and the kids and the Ferris Wheels and left. We did, however, get invited to photograph one BBQ outfit, and the owner offered us a spectacular, tender, big, flavorful pork rib that became lunch. Driving back to the Island, we stopped at Katie’s to pick dinner.
At home, we took the folding chairs to the beach and sat for over an hour looking at the waves and the strollers. One grown man was working on his sand castle with a pastry spatula and lots of patience. The sun lowered to the horizon and we did not return to the Rodeo though we had our hands stamped just in case. What a day doing nothing!!
Taking the Hway 6 exit off I-45, we drove up to the only regional Haak winery in this part of Texas and from there to the fairgrounds in Hitchcock, TX. We turned in on the country fair grounds and parked on the nearby field. It was a relatively cool and breezy day, though sunny and bright. There was the livestock show, some sheep and goats, more cows and turkeys and mostly chickens and pigs; all bored, lying in their enclosures tolerating the gawkers and their trainers. There were Ferris Wheels and Merry-go-rounds, and a mass of families milling around in the dust and sun.
The BBQ cook-off that was a big part of the attraction smelled like heaven; dozens of big, black, smoking cookers under tents with their guardians sitting around drinking beer and waiting. Turns out, this is a big affair, $2,500 just to enter the cook off; three days, first fajitas and beans, next chicken and chili and finally ribs and brisket. The judges blind-tasted each entry and developed the runner-up list, the final winners to be announced Saturday evening before the concluding rodeo at 8pm. As it turned out, we arrived too early to withstand the heat for another 4 hours, so we took pictures of the fair and the kids and the Ferris Wheels and left. We did, however, get invited to photograph one BBQ outfit, and the owner offered us a spectacular, tender, big, flavorful pork rib that became lunch. Driving back to the Island, we stopped at Katie’s to pick dinner.
At home, we took the folding chairs to the beach and sat for over an hour looking at the waves and the strollers. One grown man was working on his sand castle with a pastry spatula and lots of patience. The sun lowered to the horizon and we did not return to the Rodeo though we had our hands stamped just in case. What a day doing nothing!!
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